Vipers Bugloss

This plant originates from the Mediterranean region and is now widespread throughout the northern hemisphere, being found on light porous stones on semi-dry grassland, and waste ground. It is regarded as a weed in some parts of America. To many American farmers this will seem an understatement; they consider it a plague.

The common name, viper's bugloss, developed from the medieval Doctrine of Signatures, which ordained that a plant's use should be inferred from its appearance. It was noticed that the brown stem looked rather like a snake skin and that the seed is shaped like a viper's head. So, in their wisdom, they prescribed it for viper bites, which for once proved right; it did have some success in the treatment of the spotted viper's bite.

Species

Echium vulgare

Viper's Bugloss

Hardy biennial. Ht 2-4ft (60-120cm). Bright blue/pink flowers in the second year. Leaves mid-green and bristly.

Cultivation

Propagation

Seed

Viper's bugloss is easily grown from seed. Start it off in a controlled way in spring by sowing the small seed into a prepared seed or plug tray. Cover the seed with Perlite. When the seedlings are large enough to handle, and after a period of hardening off, plant out into a prepared site in the garden, 18in (45cm) apart.

Pests and Diseases

It rarely suffers.

Maintenance

Spring: First year, sow seeds; second year, clear around plants.

Summer: Second year, pick off flowers as they die so that they cannot set seed.

Autumn: First year, leave well alone. Second year, dig up plants and bin. Do not compost unless you want thousands of viper's bugloss plants appearing all over your garden.

Winter: No need to protect first-year plant.

Garden Cultivation

This colorful plant is beautifully marked. Sow the seed in spring directly into the garden. It will grow in any soil and is great for growing on dry soils and sea cliffs. With its long taproot, the plant will survive any drought but cannot easily be transplanted except when very young. The disadvantage is that it self-seeds and is extremely invasive.

Harvest

Gather flowers in summer for fresh use.

Container growing

Because it is a rampant self-seeder, it is quite a good idea to grow it in containers. For the first year it bears only green prickly leaves and is very boring. However, the show put on in the second year is full compensation. Use soil-based compost; no need to feed. Over-feeding will prohibit the flowering. Very tolerant of drought; nevertheless, do water it regularly. Dies back in winter of first year - leave the container somewhere cool and water occasionally.

Culinary

The young leaves are similar to borage, but they have lots more spikes. It is said you can eat them when young, but I have fought shy of this. The flowers look very attractive in salads. They can also be crystallized.

Medicinal

The fresh flowering tips can be chopped up for making poultices for treating boils. Infuse lower leaves to produce a sweating in fevers or to relieve headaches.

Other uses

At one time, a red coloring substance for dying fabrics was extracted from the root.