Sage herb and recipes

This large family of over 750 species is widely distributed throughout the world. It consists of annuals, biennials and perennials, herbs, sub-shrubs of various habits. It is an important horticultural group. I have concentrated on the medicinal, culinary and a special aromatic species. The name Salvia is derived from the Latin 'salveo' meaning I save or heal, because some species have been highly regarded medicinally. The Greeks used it to heal ulcers, consumption, and snake bites. The Romans considered it a sacred herb to be gathered with ceremony. A special knife was used, not made of iron because sage reacts with iron salts. The sage gatherer had to wear clean clothes, have clean feet and make a sacrifice of food before the ceremony could begin. Sage was held to be good for the brain, the senses and memory. It also made a good gargle and mouthwash and was used as toothpaste. There are many stories about why the Chinese valued it so highly, and in the 17th century Dutch merchants found that the Chinese would trade 3 chests of China tea for 1 of sage leaves.

Species

I have only chosen a very few species to illustrate, they are the main ones used in cooking and medicine – with one exception, with which I begin.

Salvia elegans 'Scarlet Pineapple' (rutilans)

Pineapple sage

Half-hardy perennial. Ht 90cm (3ft), spread 60cm (2ft). Striking red flowers, mid- to late summer. The leaves are green with a slight red tinge to the edges and have a glorious pineapple scent. This sage is subtropical and must be protected from frost during the winter. In temperate climates it is basically a house plant and if kept on a sunny windowsill can be used throughout the year. It can only be grown from cuttings. This is an odd sage to cook with; it does not taste as well as it smells. It is fairly good combined with apricots as a stuffing for pork, otherwise my culinary experiments with it have not met with great success.

Salvia lavandulifolia

Narrowed-leaved sage

Also known as Spanish Sage. Hardy evergreen perennial. Ht and spread 45cm (18in). Attractive blue flowers in summer. The leaves are green with a texture, small, thin, and oval in shape and highly aromatic. This is an excellent sage to cook with, very pungent. It also makes a good tea. Can only be grown from cuttings.

Salvia officinalis

Sage

Also known as Common Sage, Garden Sage, Broad Leaved Sage, and Sawge. Hardy evergreen perennial. Ht and spread 60cm (2ft). Mauve/blue flowers in summer. The leaves are green with a texture, thin and oval in shape and highly aromatic. This is the best known sage for culinary use. Can be easily grown from seed. There is also a white flowering sage Salvia officinalis 'Albiflora', which is quite rare.

Salvia officinalis broad-leaved (latifolia)

Broad-Leaved Sage

Hardy evergreen perennial. Ht and spread 60cm (2ft). Very rarely flowers in cool climates, if it does they are blue/mauve in color. The leaves are green with a texture, larger than the ordinary sage, with an oval shape and highly aromatic. Good for cooking. Can only be grown from cuttings.

Salvia officinalis 'Icterina'

Gold sage

Hardy evergreen perennial. Ht 45cm (18in), spread 75cm (30in). Very rarely flowers in cool climates, if it does they are blue/mauve in color. The leaves are green/gold variegated with a texture, small and oval in shape and aromatic. A mild flavor but equally good to cook with. Can only be grown from cuttings.

Salvia sclarea

Clary sage

Also known as Muscatel Sage. Hardy biennial. Ht 60-90cm (2-3ft) spread 45cm (18in). Colorful flower brads blue/purple/lilac with a whitish base in summer. Leaves are often 20-23cm (8-9in) long, soft green in color and slightly wrinkled. Easily grown from seed. There is another variety, Salvia sclarea var. turkestanica, with white flowers tinged with pink.

Salvia officinalis Purpurascens Group

Purple/red sage

Hardy evergreen perennial. Ht and spread 70cm (28in). Mau\e/blue flowers in summer. The leaves are purple with a texture, a thin oval shape and aromatic. 2 points to think about. If you clip it in the spring, it develops new leaves and looks really good but (lowers only a small amount. If you do not clip it and allow it to flower it goes woody. If you then cut it back it does not produce new growth until the spring, so can look a bit bare. So what to do? There is also a variegated form of this purple sage Salvia officinalis ‘Purpurascens Variegata'. Both of these can only be grown from cuttings.

Salvia officinalis 'Tricolor'

Tricolor Sage

Half-hardy evergreen perennial. Ht and spread 40cm (16in). Attractive blue flowers in summer. The leaves are green with pink, white and purple variegation, with a texture. They are small, thin, and oval in shape and highly aromatic. It has a mild flavor, so can be used in cooking. (Ian only be grown from cuttings.

Cultivation

Propagation

Seed

Common and clary sage grow successfully in the spring from seed sown into prepared seed or plug trays and covered with Perlite. The seeds are a good size. If starting off under protection in early spring, warmth is of benefit - temperatures of 15-2TC (60-70°F). Germination takes 2-3 weeks. Pot up or plant out when the frosts are over at a distance of 45-60cm (18-24in) apart.

Cuttings

This is a good method for all variegated species and the ones that do not set seed in cooler climates. Use the bark, peat mix of compost. Softwood: Take these cuttings in late spring or early summer from the strong new growth. All forms take easily from cuttings; rooting is about 4 weeks in summer. Layering. If you have a well-established sage, or if it is becoming a bit woody, layer established branches in spring or autumn.

Pests and Diseases

Sage grown in the garden does not suffer over much from pests and disease. Sage grown in containers, especially pineapple sage, is prone to red spider mite. As soon as you see this pest, treat with a liquid horticultural soap as per the instructions.

Maintenance

Spring: Sow seeds. Trim if needed, and then take softwood cuttings.

Summer: Trim back after flowering.

Autumn: Protect all half hardy sages, and first-year plants.

Winter: Protect plants if they are needed for fresh leaves.

Garden cultivation

Sage, although predominately a Mediterranean plant, is sufficiently hardy to withstand any ordinary winter without protection, as long as the soil is well drained and not acid, and the site is as warm and dry as possible. The flavor of the leaf can vary as to how rich, damp, etc, the soil is. If wishing to sow seed outside, wait until there is no threat of frost and sow direct into prepared ground, spacing the seeds 23cm (9in) apart. After germination thin to 45cm (18in) apart. For the first winter cover the young plants with agricultural fleece or mulch. To keep the plants bushy prune in the spring to encourage young shoots for strong flavor, and also after flowering in late summer. Mature plants can be pruned hard in the spring after some cuttings have been taken as insurance. Never prune in the autumn as this can kill the plant. As sage is prone to becoming woody, replace the plant every 4-5 years.

Harvest

Since sage is an evergreen plant, the leaves can be used fresh any time of the year. In Mediterranean-type climates, including the southern states of America, the leaves can be harvested during the winter months. In cooler climates this is also possible if you cover a chosen bush with agricultural fleece as this will keep the leaves in better condition. They dry well, but care should be taken to keep their green color. Because this herb is frequently seen in its dried condition people presume it is easy to dry. But beware, although other herbs may lose some of their aroma or qualities if badly dried or handled, sage seems to pick up a musty scent and a flavor really horrible to taste - better to grow it in your garden to use fresh.

Container growing

All sages grow happily in containers. Pineapple sage is an obvious one as it is tender, but a better reason is that if it is at hand one will rub the leaves and smell that marvelous pineapple scent. Use the bark, grit, peat mix of compost for all varieties, feed the plants alter flowering, and do not over-water.

Companion planting

Sage planted with cabbages is said to repel cabbage white butterflies. Planted next to vines it is generally beneficial.

Other uses

The dried leaves, especially those of pineapple sage, are good added to potpourris.

Medicinal

For centuries, sage has been esteemed for its healing powers. It is a first rate remedy as a hot infusion for colds. Sage tea combined with a little cider vinegar makes a gargle which is excellent for sore throats, laryngitis and tonsillitis. It is also beneficial for infected gums and mouth ulcers. The essential oil, known as Sage Clary or Muscatel Oil, is obtained by steamed distillation of the fresh or partially dried flower stems and leaves. It is used in herbal medicine but more widely in toilet waters, perfumes and soap, and to flavor wine, vermouth and liqueurs.

Culinary

This powerful healing plant is also a strong culinary herb, although it has been misused and misjudged in the culinary world. Used with discretion it adds a lovely flavor, aids digestion; of fatty food, and being an antiseptic it kills off any bugs in the meat as it cooks. It has long been used with sausages because of its preservative qualities. It also makes a delicious herb jelly, or oil or vinegar. Bui I like using small amounts fresh. The original form of the following recipe comes from a vegetarian friend of mine. I fell in love with it and have subsequently adapted it to include some other herbs.

Hazelnut and Mushroom Roast

Serves 4

A little sage oil (see page 238) long grain brown rice (measured to the 150ml (5fl oz) mark on a glass measuring jug) 275ml (l0fl oz) boiling water.

1 teaspoon salt I large onion, peeled and chopped

110g (4oz) mushrooms, wiped and chopped

2 medium carrots, pared and roughly grated 1/2 teaspoon coriander seed

1 tablespoon soy sauce 110g (4oz) whole meal breadcrumbs

175g (6oz) ground hazelnuts

1 teaspoon chopped sage leaves

1 teaspoon chopped lovage leaves

Sunflower seeds for decoration A 900g (21b) loaf tin, lined with greaseproof paper

Pre-heat the oven (180°C 350°F, Gas Mark 4).

Heat 1 dessert spoon of sage oil in a small saucepan, toss the rice in it to give it a coating of oil, add boiling water straight from the kettle and the teaspoon of salt. Stir, and let the rice cook slowly for roughly 40 minutes or until the liquid has been absorbed. While the rice is cooking, heat 1 tablespoon of sage oil in a medium sized frying-pan, add the onions, mushrooms, carrots, the ground coriander seed and soy sauce. Mix them together and let them cook for about 10 minutes. Combine the cooked brown rice, breadcrumbs, hazelnuts, sage and lovage; mix with the vegetables and place the complete mixture in the prepared loaf tin. Scatter the sunflower seeds on top and bake in the oven for 45 minutes. Leave to cool slightly in the tin. Slice and serve with a home-made tomato sauce and a green salad.